How To Monitor Water Quality – Part 1

There’s an old saying that fishkeeping is not about keeping fish, but keeping water! This is true in many ways, because unless we keep the aquarium water in good condition, our fish will not remain healthy and happy.

After all, most fish health problems result from poor water quality. An understanding of water quality parameters will help you prevent such problems, or resolve them quickly if they occur.

This article will introduce you to the most important water quality parameters, show you how to measure them and suggest what to do if they are incorrect.

The Nitrogen Cycle

The nitrogen cycle is central to the health of the aquarium, and involves three of the most important water quality parameters: ammonia (NH ¾ +), nitrite (NO 2 -) and nitrate (NO 3 -). In order to create a healthy aquarium, part of the nitrogen cycle must work inside the filter.

Both ammonia and nitrite are toxic to fish, and cause health problems. By getting specific parts of the nitrogen cycle to work within the filter, ammonia and nitrite are converted into nitrate, which is virtually harmless to most fish. This process is called “biological filtration”.

High ammonia and nitrite levels are common in new aquariums, or when the aquarium is overstocked or this is overfeeding. If left unchecked, their levels may rise, resulting in the outbreak of disease and fatalities. It is important to regularly test the water for ammonia and nitrite; otherwise you cannot tell what the ammonia and nitrite levels are (clear water can still be polluted). This is especially important for new aquariums. The levels of ammonia and nitrite can be determined with water quality kits. They are simple to use and offer a quick way of finding out how healthy the water is. Ideally, levels of both ammonia and nitrite should be 0mg/l. if ammonia levels rise above 0.25mg/l, or nitrite rises above 0.3mg/l, a partial water change should be made to dilute them. Remember to always use water that has been conditioned with a dechlorinator.

After reducing the ammonia and nitrite levels, you should find out what may have caused the problem.

In new aquariums, ammonia and nitrite levels should be checked every day or tow. As the aquariums “mature”, testing can be reduced to once every one to two weeks. Ammonia or nitrite should not be present in a healthy aquarium.

Nitrate is the end-product of the biological filtration process that takes place in the filter. It is relatively harmless to fish, and an important nutrient for plants. However, if left unchecked, it can begin to stress the fish and encourage the growth of algae.

For most fish, a nitrate level of 50mg/l or below is ideal. Sensitive species such as discus prefer lower levels. You can check nitrate levels using water quality test kits. If levels are too high, steps you can take to reduce them may include cleaning the gravel, using low-waste food, adding more plants, performing water changes or using a nitrate reducer. As a general rule, nitrate levels should be tested every two to three weeks.

Source: Rupert Bridges, Tetra Information Centre

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